Our last evening in Nunukan was a mix of intrigue and surprise. We started with a delightful $3 roti bread from a local warang. The unexpected highlight was chancing upon a local crowd gathered for trance dances.
Kuda Lumping, or Jahtilan, is a trance dance with ancient roots in pre-Islamic Indonesia. It was originally thought to be a re-enactment of wars long past. Professional dancers do not perform the dance; it is a unique expression of their amazing culture.
Kuda Lumping, which means flat horse, refers to bamboo horses that performers ride in the ceremony, typically young men, who, as they are dancing, become immersed in the repetitive beat of the music, which builds them towards a tranced state. In this trance state, a door is opened to the spiritual world and the dead enter the performers’ bodies. As participants become possessed, they perform unique, weird acts, such as eating fluorescent glass tubes; some are tests of strength, and some have your stomach churning and involve live chickens. The music and dance are things we have never experienced before.
During our visit, we also visited schools, which remained a delightful experience for us. We thoroughly enjoyed connecting with teachers, and the entertaining smiles and curious stares from the children only enhanced our overall enjoyment.
We also took a tour of the radio station at Nunukan, and one of the rally participants willingly volunteered for an on-air interview, enhancing our experience.
