The Rapids – Katherine

We travelled nearly 700 km today—what a journey! We didn’t plan to travel so far, we wanted to stay at Daly Waters, but it so busy, the pub doesn’t like to turn people away so it is tightly packed area where you camp. We thought we stop in on the way back.
Our destination is Katherine, and we were looking forward to our stay at ‘The Rapids Bush Camping. This campsite is located 17 km from Katherine, on 600 acres with access to the Katherine River. However, we arrived a day early. Since we hadn’t booked a spot for tonight, we decided to pull into the King River Rest Area. Fortunately, it was a great spot. There was some road noise, but it was manageable, and there was shade. It was time to relax and unwind after a long day.
Controlled bush burning is a common practice here. As you drive along the highway, the sight of blackened grass stretches for hundreds of kilometers.
We decided to start our day early the next morning; 8 o’clock was early for us to be on the road. Our plans included filling up with water and groceries and visiting the Tourist Information Centre to book a cruise through Katherine Gorge.
Katherine was the only major town we encountered since leaving Mt Isa. It was great to find that they had parking available for cars and caravans, allowing you to park your rig and head into Woolworths, Kmart or anything else you needed. The town was bustling, and it seemed like there were hundreds of vans.
It was a 10-minute slow drive on a dusty track down to our campsite. There was an abundance of area to choose from, and we decided to pitch our camp close to the Katherine River, which was just a short walk down to the rapids. We observed a great variety of birdlife and noticed numerous animal footprints in the red dirt. We could hear strange sounds and soon realised they might be crocodiles from the river. The nighttime sky was breathtaking.
Reaching Katherine Gorge was an incredible experience and fulfilled a long-standing bucket list item. Before we set out, we had some time to spare, so we decided to visit the lookout to take in the stunning views of the gorge. It was a hot day, and although there were stairs to climb, there weren’t too many. The views from the top made the effort worthwhile.
The commentary throughout our boat cruise was captivating, immersing us in the rich geological history of the gorge. Katherine Gorge, also known as Nitmiluk Gorge, is a series of 13 gorges carved into the sandstone plateau by the Katherine River. The gorges are a relatively recent geological feature, formed by the river cutting through sandstone over the last 25 million years. The river’s course follows intersecting joints and faults within the sandstone, creating a zigzag pattern in the gorge. The gorge walls range from 60 to 90m. Weathering and erosion have created numerous caves and overhangs along the gorge walls.
Freshwater crocodiles were basking on the banks as we glided along the water. The sight of the rare grey heron, with its graceful posture and striking plumage, was a bonus; pied cormorants were perched on branches watching us cruise by. We enjoyed the vibrant wildlife and stunning scenery around us.
The region’s Aboriginal people hold a deep reverence for the Rainbow Serpent, known as Bolung (pronounced BOH-loong), who is a central figure in their creation stories. According to tradition, Bolung is believed to have crafted the gorge as he slithered across the land, shaping the earth with his powerful movements. This creation story is just a part of a rich tapestry of beliefs. You can learn more about the whole narrative at the designated lookout point, where the significance of the gorge is explained in greater detail.